It's the question everyone is asking. Why? Because it seems it is at a crossroads yet again in the history of the Cumhurriyet.
This beautiful land is grappling with its own identity, but not as it is perceived. It is grappling with a change of identity. Today's Turkish society is more educated, more world savvy. But this is not the image that is projected to the world. Why? Because Turks really don't know how to explain themselves to the world let alone their own patriots. But for what it's worth there are still some shining moments that touch the heart of every foreigner living here, and if you haven't experienced this Turkish hospitality then you are surely missing the essence of Turkish living itself.
Situation: Last weekend I was shopping for a wedding present for a couple of friends who celebrated their respect for each other by tying the knot.
A raki drinking Budhist from Belgium and a Euro savvy and expert analyst from Turkey, who wed.
I browsed a few stores in my neighbourhood looking for the perfect gift. I wandered into a small store that was full of curios. A small item in the window caught my eye - a money box, but no ordinary money box. A small tin from the '60s, shaped like a house and painted like one with a slot in the top. It was old and funky and had a practical function, given it would not hold enough money for the house they will one day buy, but perfect in metaphor for a newly wed couple of friends.
The vendor asked for 50 YTL, I had 40 YTL in my wallet. I asked if I could bring him the extra 10 YTl later on in the day. I promised to bring it at 6pm. He looked at his watch and said, "I'll be counting the minutes, if you're a minute late I'll have to set the dogs on you." This was followed by a coy smile.
I left the shop with a nicely wrapped gift that I hand't completely paid for. I dropped the money off two days late, and he smiled and said no problem, see you soon.
What a nice man. These are the things I really love about Turkey.
Two weeks ago, I had to be at the studio for a live transmission at 6am. I hopped into a cab hoping to get some money from the ATM on the way to the studio. Every ATM I stopped at was empty after the weekend. The taxi driver said, "No problem drop it by later."
You have to understand that at this point the guy didn't know me from Adam. He had no idea of where I lived etc. as I'd hopped in on the street. The fair was not just a drop in the neighbourhood, it was a large sum, as I had to travel right across town.
And I thought this is why I live in Turkey and if only everyone could experience this Turkish culture.
I've always been welcomed and treated like a local.
When my colleague asked me in Qatar, "Why Turkey?". My reply was simple, "It's like a village, the guy in the cornershop will pass a message to his neighbour for you, even though he's never met you before."
I guess we all find this in our own environments eventually when you live somewhere long enough - but I've never been able to find it from a complete stranger no matter how long I've lived in a city.
This is one side of my Turkey that I truly admire and is why I still live here. What a place, a city of almost 17 million people, but who still have time to help a stranger, because the gesture is more important than the transaction itself.
Happy long life to the Turkish-Belgium marriage!
